This Tour du Mont Blanc 7 day itinerary follows the TMB trail from Chamonix to Chamonix using occasional public transport. This itinerary cuts out stage 7, 10 and 11.

Originally this 7 day itinerary completed the entire TMB trek in a week however we were finding that people were booking it only because they had one week of holiday spare and ended up on the route, unable to complete the daily mileage. I’ve now changed this 7 day itinerary to NOT include the whole of the TMB but rather to take transport on some days.

Note: this itinerary is from Chamonix to Chamonix – it trails through all three countries, France, Italy and Switzerland however does not include the impressive Balcon Sud sections on stages 10 and 11 which run alongside the Chamonix Valley. These can be added on to make a 9 day itinerary. As stages 10 and 11 can be Chamonix based (they run alongside the Chamonix Valley) these stages can be added BEFORE or after the main 7 day itinerary. If you are limited to 8 days then it’s nice to add stage 10 on as the 8th day, or there is a cheeky trick to squeezing stage 10 in on day 7. Read on to find out more:-

Please note this itinerary is now suitable for the average, moderately fit hiker.

Good to know: this itinerary takes various transport short cuts to enable this complete TMB trek to be done in only 7 days. These include the Bellevue cable car which runs from mid June to mid September and the Maison Vielle chairlift and Dolonne cable car which runs only in July & August. If you wish to trek outside of July and August its possible to get a taxi from the top of the Val Veny cable car to make the long day 3 workable.

Start point: Les Houches, a village at the beginning of the Chamonix Valley, France (1 hr from Geneva Airport)

If you’re arriving from Geneva Airport you can get a direct mini bus transfer to Les Houches which takes around an hour and fifteen minutes.

Day 1 Les Houches – Val Montjoie (via Col du Tricot)

1410m up / 1260m down / 17.9km / 7hrs 45 (Les Houches – Les Contamines)

730m up / 1230m down / 12km / 5hrs (Bellevue plateau – Les Contamines)

This itinerary takes the variant stage 1 via the Col du Tricot. In bad weather you should take the traditional trail via Bionnassay

Route overview:

This itinerary ideally takes the Bellevue cable car from Les Houches to the Bellevue Plateau & picks up the path for the Col du Tricot. The first timing above include the extra 2 hours of trekking up from the valley floor, in case you do not wish to take the Bellevue cable car (second timing above).

After the Himalayan suspension bridge the route begins to gently climb until the spectacular Bionnassay glacier comes into full view. From here you can see the top of the Col du Tricot and it’s a steady climb up to the grassy saddle. Spend some time here to admire the views over the Miage Valley and far off the Col du Bonhomme. Spot Refuge Miage in the distant cluster of farm buildings way down in the valley below (a great stop refreshment stop if you have time). If you look carefully to your left, you’ll see a stone archway on the ‘smugglers route’ to Refuge Plan Glacier (see our adventure itinerary). The descent down is STEEP! Take it easy and use your poles. Reaching the valley floor follow the signs to reach Refuge Miage in just 5 minutes. This cluster of farm buildings in set in an idyllic rural setting and is charmingly French. The view of the Dômes de Miage (3600m) from the refuge is outstanding.

After an initial short climb from the Miage Valley up and over to Auberge du Truc. From here it’s a long steady descent through the forest into Les Contamines.

Day 2 Val Montjoie – Les Chapieux or Refuge Mottets

1300m up / 930m down / 18.8km / 7hrs (Les Contamines – Les Chapieux with no transport)

This itinerary could take you via the variant Col des Fours if you are booked into Refuge Mottets, however this must not be taken in bad weather or early season. When trekking in June or the first week of July OR during bad weather in peak season you MUST take the traditional route via Les Chapieux

Route overview:

Today you’ll make the climb over two mountain passes, Col du Bonhomme (2329m) and Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2483m) where early in the season (late June – end of July) you can expect to cross patches of snow.

Departing from this small French town you can either choose to walk along the river to Notre Dame de la Gorge or pick up the free shuttle bus (navette) outside the Tourist Office to Notre Dame de la Gorge where the trail heads out into the wild once more. Taking the free shuttle bus saves around an hour of walking (July & Aug only).

Take a moment to visit the beautiful Notre Dame de la Gorge chapel next to the gushing water before setting out on the well marked path. Warning – the trail is VERY steep here along an ancient slabbed Roman road to Refuge Nant Borrant but pleasantly flanks the bubbling racing gorge for much of the ascent. Be sure to look out for the pont naturel sign leading to a natural arch on the river, just a minute from the trail. Cross the roman bridge to take in the rushing gorge below. After reaching Refuge Nant Borrant press for almost a further 3kms before reaching Refuge Le Balme. Be sure to stop here for a refreshment as after this you’ll begin the ascent of the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme.

It’s straight up the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme. Throw a stone onto the cairn at Plan de Dame as you pass by to remember a British lady that perished here back in the 1800s. Even if you hit snow here during early season you shouldn’t need to put on microspikes as there’s no exposure however its crucial in early season to put them on at the top of the Col du Bonhomme – you’ll see the section between the two cols is just a traverse with a steep mountain gradient falling away on the right hand side. In early season it’s imperative you put on hiking crampons here. In later summer then this is a glorious undulating path with an easy water crossing just before the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme.

If the weather is fine and you’re booked into Refuge Mottets, you can take the alternative route just before Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme via the Col des Fours. This spectacular variant leads you over a lunar like landscape before dropping into the Vallée des Glaciers picking up the trail at Ville des Glacier. Note this route cuts out the hamlet of Les Chapieux. Never attempt this variant route if the weather is nothing short of perfect. If you’ve booked either Auberge de la Nova or Les Chambres de Soleil in Les Chapieux then you cannot take the Col des Fours variant as it cuts out Les Chapieux entirely.

If you’re continuing along the normal TMB route the well marked trail will descend all the way down to the valley into Les Chapieux. If it’s bad weather and you are staying at Refuge Mottets, you can carry on a further 1-1.5 hours up the trail to the refuge. Or as we would suggest catch the navette (shuttle bus) which ferries you in 30 minutes to the parking area of Refuge Les Mottets (you’ll then have to walk down the hillside to the refuge in the valley bottom).

Day 3 Les Chapieux – Courmayeur

1200m up / 1020m down / 19.7km / 7-8hrs (Ville des Glaciers – Refuge Maison Vielle chairlift)

This day is long. I’ve cut it down to 19.7km by taking the shuttle bus from Les Chapieux to Les Villes des Glaciers & by taking the Maison Vielle chairlift / Dolonne cable car down into Courmayeur. On shoulder season (June and Sept) you can organise a taxi to pick you up from the top of the Val Veny cable car (a further 30 min walk) as the chairlift & cable car won’t be operating. Alternatively a way to dramatically cut this day would be to omit stage 4 altogether exiting at Cabane Combal on their access road down to the village of La Visaille where you can catch a free bus to Courmayeur

Route overview:

Today’s hike is two stages merged into one day. It’s necessary to take some public transport to make this day workable or for those who feel this is too much it’s possible to exit at Cabane Combal half way through the day. Of course if you’ve stayed at Refuge Mottets instead of Les Chapieux then it’s an even easier day.

From the valley floor the trail climbs steadily up past Refuge Mottets and up the Col de la Seigne – the border crossing from France into Italy. Here at the top you’ll spot Mont Blanc to your left – pray for good weather! The view into the Val Veny is glorious – this beautiful U shaped valley is just outstanding. The descent is easy enough down to the valley floor – don’t miss stopping at the converted Casermetta hut which is now an environmental centre – its around 15-20 mins from the top of the Col de la Seigne on the Italian side.

After descending down onto the valley floor, you’ll pass Rifugio Elisabetta on a high spur to the left. Continue along the straight roman road passing the lake until you are opposite the gorgeous A frame cabin – Cabane Combal – take a photo – it’s beautiful!

Here you can either carry on straight to cross the bridge and turn right to exit the TMB – its around 50-60 minutes to descend on this road to the village of La Visaille where you can catch a free bus to Courmayeur. Or just after you’re opposite with Cabane Combal, you’ll turn right following the TMB signposts to start stage 4.

Climbing up to the highest point, a spur from Mont Favre, looking back you can see the monstrous moraine of Glacier Miage dwarfing Cabane Combal and on a clear day you can see all the way back to Col de la Seigne.

From here you’ll trace the contours of the southern flank of the Val Veny following the rise and fall of the mountain side with jaw dropping views of sawtooth peaks and Monte Bianco opposite all the way along to Rifugio Maison Vielle. It’s here during peak season (July &Aug) that I would recommend you to take the chair lift and connecting cable car down to Dolonne (which is a 10 minute saunter into Courmayeur). The last chairlift descends just after 5pm. If you miss the last chairlift don’t worry it’s not a disaster – Rifugio Maison Vielle can call a taxi for you to pick you up just 30 minutes walk away to where the taxi can drive up – the top of the Val Veny cable car (this cable car won’t be running).

Note: if you were to walk down to Courmayeur from Rifugio Maison Vielle, it would be a further 2 hours descent which would make for a very long day indeed. I do advise taking public transport at the end of today to make this day manageable.

Day 4 Courmayeur – Rifugio Bonatti or Val Ferret

1088m up / 263m down / 12.1 km / 4-5 hours

Route overview:

You’ll tackle all the elevation in the first 2 hours as you steadily leave Courmayeur in the distance striking out for Rifugio Bertone. Upon arrival enjoy a refreshment at this cosy rifugio before deciding whether you’ll follow the traditional balcony trail along to Rifugio Bonatti or whether, in good weather, you want to really push yourself taking the Mont de la Saxe high ridge route to Bonatti. This high route goes via Tête de la Tronche which offers insane views of the southern buttress of the Mont Blanc Massif. Both routes start at Rifugio Bertone and end at Rifugio Bonatti.

Day 5 Rifugio Bonatti or Val Ferret  – Champex Lac (skips stage 7)

890m up / 1210m down / 16.8km / 6hrs

Route overview:

You’ll be walking along the gentle southern ridge of the Val Ferret valley today before the climb over the Grand Col Ferret (2537m), the border between Italy and Switzerland. Descending past the working dairy farm Alpage de la Peule, you’ll continue down to Ferret were you’ll catch the bus to Champex Lac missing out stage 7 of the TMB.

The Swiss section of the TMB is altogether a more mellow landscape with rolling green pastures, pretty meadows and lush forest.

Stop for a refreshment or a late lunch at Alpage de la Peule, an authentic working dairy farm. From here its all downhill today. You’ll descend into Ferret where you’ll catch the bus, skipping stage 7 of the TMB to arrive at the lovely lake side town of Champex Lac.

Day 6 Champex Lac – Trient

856m up / 1052m down / 16.7km / 4-5 hours (Champex Lac – Trient)

It’s possible to take the variant via the Fênetre d’Arpette on this day. This is a technical, challenging variant which crosses a boulder field for approximately an hour before crossing the col – this variant should never be done early season or in bad weather

Route overview:

Today you have a tough call to make as to which route you take – the traditional ‘bovine’ route or the most challenging variant of the entire TMB – the Col du Fenêtre.

The first deciding factor is the weather. It must be excellent weather to consider taking the variant.

If the weather is good then you need to consider the terrain and experience of your group. Will they enjoy scrambling over scree and boulders, occasionally on all fours and with possibly a little bum lowing on the way down?

Then there’s also the draw of the traditional route – lunch at the L’Alpage du Bovine! This fantastic little buvette is certainly one of the best places to eat on the Tour du Mont Blanc. A local family bring their cows up each summer and cook for trekkers – its one of the most authentic places to experience on the TMB (as well as the cheese farm on stage 3). The traditional trail is still not ‘easy’ – there’s a couple of tough ascents in there totalling around 700m of up before the trail eases down with views over the Rhône Valley – the outline of ugly Martigny muted by glorious rows of grapevines.

Col du Fenêtre variant – if the weather is less than perfect do not consider taking the variant. It’s the most technical terrain on the entire TMB and unlike the rest of the trek, the trail is not marked well and can be lost. The boulder field just before the col requires a lot of attention and trekkers need to be mindful of loose screw and rocks that dislodge easily and can be fatal to trekkers below. Set off super early though and you’ll be in for a treat. When you finally summit the col you will feel a real sense of achievement – it’s the only place on the trek I’ve experienced other trekkers congratulating each other a real sense of camaraderie.The descent from the Col du Fenêtre is nothing short of astounding – the incredible Trient Glacier spills down beside the trail – this mammoth hunk of ice will memorise you during your descent and will surely be one of your unforgettable memories of this incredible trek. Note: there’s a few points where you need to lower yourself down over rocks – a bit of bum shuffling but nothing too hair raising.

Day 7 Trient – Chamonix

m up / m down / km / hrs

Route overview:

On your last day you’ll climb the Col de Balme and cross from Switzerland back into France. At the top of the col you’ll witness the most stunning view of Mont Blanc and the Chamonix Valley.

Note: there are various routes up from Trient to the Col de Balme. My favourite is the variant via Les Grands. It takes a bit more effort than the traditional straight up route but if you decided against crossing the Fenêtre d’Arpette the day before (either due to bad weather or you didn’t fancy crossing the boulder field) then today’s variant will allow you to drink in the shockingly beautiful view of the Trient glacier 🙌

You can read more about taking the Les Grands variant in my post here. The most important thing to know if you are considering taking this variant is that because it’s not just the straight up traditional route, it does a little bit more time. Therefore you need to either plan to have a very long day today if you’re going to pick up the traditional route from Refuge Col de Balme via the Posettes ridge down to Tré-le-Champ OR do the variant Les Grands route and then plan to take the easier ‘variant’ down the front of Le Tour (this is just descending straight down on the other side of the col – in peak season you can even take the chairlift and cable car). Whilst the traditional Posettes ridge has beautiful views, it does have a strenuous downhill and this entire section from Refuge de Balme to Tré-le-Champ can take 4-5 hours. So it’s probably a toss up as to which one you will do – if its not early season and the weather is good – I would take the Les Grands variant every time and ditch the Posettes ridge. In early season the Les Grands variant can have a lot of snow still on the Col de Balme traverse so it is not advised.

Your call….. if you’re super fit, set off early and are prepared for a long day you can do both!

Bear in mind that your 7 day itinerary is ending today so ordinarily you will be missing stages 10 and 11 and getting the train back into Chamonix from the village of Montroc (a 10 minute walk from Tré-le-Champ or Le Tour). IF you are happy to miss the Posettes ridge you can consider getting the chairlift and cable car down from Refuge Le Balme, walking down to Montroc (10 mins), climb back up the trail to Tré-Le-Champ (10 mins) and hiking stage 10 in the afternoon descending on the Flégère cable car at the end of the day. This is a great way to squeeze stage 10 into your 7 day!

Starting along the north flank of the Chamonix Valley stage 10 of the Tour du Mont Blanc (with a detour up to the infamous Lac Blanc) could be possible in your afternoon if you’ve whizzed down the chairlift/cable car at Le Tour. Hiking through the Aiguille Rouge National Park on stage 10, you’ll have a good chance of seeing marmots, chamois or bouquetin (ibex).

It’s a 3 hours climb up to Lac Blanc from Tré-le-Champ or shorter if you go directly to Flégère cable car after climbing up to Tête aux Vents.

The route climbs steadily for around 1.5hrs from Tré-le-Champ until you reach the infamous TMB ladders – a series of 13 ladders and metal ware built into the rock. It’s the most exciting physical aspect of the entire Tour du Mont Blanc. At the Tête aux Vents, a large cairn (2132m) you can choose to detour up to Lac Blanc or traverse along the trail to La Flégère.

Lac Blanc (2,352m) has an almost mythical stature – however if you’re not staying overnight at the refuge you’ll most probably experience the hoard of day trippers who access the lake via the cable car and chair lift. It’s still worth a look but downgrade your expectations. The magic here happens when the day trippers leave late afternoon. If you have an extra day in your schedule it’s worth booking Refuge Lac Blanc and experiencing the incredible serene peace that descends each evening.

If you’ve found this website helpful, let me help you even further. I offer zoom consultations to independent trekkers OR even to self guided trekkers who have want to book, or who have already booked with a trekking company. I can help you understand the trail much better before you set off. Choose from either a 60 or 90 min zoom session & I’ll show you your route on a shared online map discussing each part of every day of your tour. I’ll show you water stops, hazards, lunch stops, exit points and much more. PLUS the zoom is recorded so you don’t even need to take copious notes. You ALSO receive unlimited support via email until the date of your trek!