Refuge Les Grands Variant

Last Updated on July 16, 2025 by Mags Nixon

The Refuge Les Grands variant (variant for stage 9 of the Tour du Mont Blanc also known as variant 5 via Les Grands in the Kingsley Jones guidebook & map) is the least known variant on the TMB.

The traditional route of stage 9 climbs steadily though the Vallon Nant Noir hugging the forest for the majority of the time with no significant views until the Col de Balme. It’s certainly an easier stage for those who are utterly exhausted and a better route in bad weather with shelter under the trees.

However, for those of you who can sum up the energy, the Refuge Les Grands variant route will not disappoint. A historic trail heralding incredible views of the Trient glacier this little trodden trail takes you high above the tree line to Refuge Les Grands and then follows a glorious high traverse on a good path around the lower flanks of Les Grands Otanes (2679m) connecting to the traditional TMB trail at the Col de Balme.

This variant takes between 3.5-4 hours before marrying up to the main trail at Refuge du Col de Balme. 

Whilst you’ll share the first 45 minutes along the flat ‘Bisse du Trient’ to buvette Chalet des Glaciers with dog walkers and promenading day trippers, the Bisse is a path of historical importance and is very interesting.

The Bisse du Trient starts at the Col de la Forclaz and runs along a flat balcony trail to buvette, Chalet du Glacier (50 mins) but can also be picked up from Trient or Le Peuty (in this case you will have probably walked the initial section of the Bisse on your descent from the Col the previous day).

The ‘bisse’, a narrow deep channel cut along the path, was used in the 19^th century before the invention of fridges to transport ice cut from the glacier down the valley. The ice was then transported by train from Martigny to restaurants nationwide. It’s interesting to see the wooden framework along the trail and to read the information boards (French only).

At the end of the trail is a popular buvette (mountain cafe) – Chalet du Glacier, a small affair commanding a fantastic view of the Trient glacier (however eye wateringly expensive being in Switzerland!). We’d recommend a water break to appreciate the view and pressing on. Note that you cannot fill your water bottle at the cafe as the water is non-potable but you can refill filter bottles or buy bottled water.

Cross the wooden bridge to the right across the glacial torrent and turn left to start the steep 90 minute climb to Refuge Les Grands. You’ll need to tap into hidden energy reserves here but you’ll be rewarded just before the refuge by a glimpse of Glacier des Grands as well as one of the most thrilling aspects of the trail – a path cut deep into the cliffside reminiscent of high altitude trails in China or Tibet. The exposure is high but a bolted metal hand rail will help those of a nervous disposition to cover this short section safely in under a minute before arriving at a huge cross.

Almost immediately you’ll come upon Refuge les Grands. This tiny refuge is one of the little known gems on the TMB trail. With exceptional views of the Trient glacier the location of this refuge guarantees solitude and quiet reflection. With only 15 mattresses squished up beside each other inside the attic and another couple of spaces in the bergerie to bivvy, you’ll share this space with the few adventurous. The outdoor loo (and shower) and the fact you can’t get a hot evening meal here means that majority of TMB trekkers dismiss this route leaving it gloriously uncrowded. Dinner is not provided merely a bed, so it’s necessary to bring your own food and cook for the night. Dinner need not be a weighty affair though.

For the few that get to Les Grands though it’s just a pleasant stop for a refreshment to gaze at the incredible Trient glacier before pressing on to the Col de Balme. After leaving Refuge les Grands the trail traverses high with some high exposure points and rocky technical sections. Keep your eyes on your feet to avoid injury and stop frequently to drink in the full glory of the now fully visible Trient glacier behind you. Around an hour later the path rounds high above on the Vallon Noir flank with Refuge le Balme a tiny black square silhouetted on the sky line. The path becomes easy now with clear views of Col du Balme ahead and the lower traditional path climbing up from below.

Refuge du Col de Balme is worth a stay if it works with your itinerary. Exposed to the elements, the refuge is often subject to strong winds but it’s a great place to stay with hearty food. It can be tricky to book early though if you are planning your TMB trek the September or October before (as is now often unfortunately the case due to the popularity of the TMB) as Henri, the owner, tends to not open his online reservation system until around April each year.

From Refuge du Col de Balme there’s an easy short cut down to Tré-le-Champ if you’re feeling weary by simply taking the chairlift and gondola (June 8th – September 8th 2024 – see timetable here) down the mountain to the small village of Le Tour. The chairlift is visible from the refuge – it’s under a ten minute walk. You can’t pay for your ticket at the top so you simply get on the chairlift and pay at the bottom. From there you can walk over to the cable car and descend to Le Tour.

You can also simply just walk down under the ski lifts on the stony piste track which is easy enough (and free!)

From Le Tour either catch the bus for one stop to Montroc train station, or its a ten minute walk (walk through the car park down to the main road and follow the road straight down to Montroc.

At Montroc walk through the train car park to the far end to find a pedestrian bridge crossing the tracks. Pick up the short trail ascending to Tré-le-Champ (15 minutes). Those not lucky enough to have booked Refuge le Boerne early enough (it books out very quickly as is the only accommodation option directly on the trail at this point) can walk ten minutes from Montroc station to stay at Gite Les Moulins, or head to hotel accommodation options in Argentiere, Chamonix or Vallorcine and return to the trail head the following morning. This is easy enough to do by train.

Those keen to follow the traditional route to Tré-le-Champ won’t be disappointed. The Aiguillette des Posettes is arguably one of the finest views of the Chamonix valley. If the weather’s playing ball, you’ll have clear views of the sparkling dome of Mont Blanc as you hike along the long ridge and down the numerous wooden steps cut into the mountain until you finally disappear below the tree line on the long descent to Tré-le-Champ.